Nestled on the premières côtes of Vouvray, within a landscape entirely carved from the moving body of the Loire, is Clos de L’Epinay. Neighbored by a cluster of grand, historic estates and situated directly on the Vouvray ridgeline, the vineyards sprawl across several microclimates, each with its own distinct slope, orientation and degree of exposure.

Winemaking impresario Henri Bruneau has applied a fine-tooth comb to deciphering the stories that his vineyards are waiting to tell. He has identified ten defined terroirs within the domaine’s total 20 hectares, each of which possesses its own “winemaking itinerary.”

Across Henri’s many vines, clay and limestone are the leitmotif connecting a diversity of parcels, ninety percent of which are planted to Chenin Blanc. Yet Henri treats each parcel as its own. Some parcels are naturally coherent. Others that are more complex require an in-depth holistic analysis to unravel their potential. This is the heart of Henri’s work. His ability to work the vines differently according to their terroir and micro-climate allows for a truly singular expression of Chenin.

In the cellar, he intervenes very little, permitting the terroir and vintage alone to determine the personality of the wines. He is meticulous about carefully monitoring the health of the ambient yeasts and the progress of their fermentations. In this way, he likes to say that he “accompanies rather than ages” his wines — he is simply an affectionate guardian, letting the wines discover their own excellence.

CLOS DE L’EPINAY

Country: France

Region: Touraine, Loire

Sub-region or Appellation: Vouvray

Winemakers: Henri Bruneau

Viticulture: Certified Organic, practicing biodynamic

Terroir: clay, limestone, flint

Size: 18 ha

Website: https://clos-epinay.com/
Instagram: @domaine_clos_epinay

CLOS DE L’EPINAY :: Chaflorie Pétillant

A plump yet vivacious expression of Chenin Blanc, fermented pet’nat style but masquerading like Cremant. Bright citrus fruits are accented by a toasty backbone, and everlasting acidity. Among the more beautiful pet’nats we’ve tasted.

Vintage: 2023
Varieties: Chenin Blanc
Style: Sparkling Wine (Pet’ Nat)
ABV: 11%
Region: Touraine, Loire
Sub-Region or Appellation: AOC Vouvray
Viticulture:
Age of Vines: < 15 years
Soils: cold clay & flintstone on limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous yeasts
Vinification: Grapes are hand-picked in shallow boxes, pressed with pneumatic press, then fermented in steel tanks
Aging: Bottled before fermentation is complete (pétillant naturel)
Fining or Filtering: No fining, slight filtering
Sulfur: none added

Residual Sugar: 9.6 g/L

CLOS DE L’EPINAY :: Chaflorie Sec

Chenin at its nerviest. Riper stone fruits are concealed by punchy acidity and a slight waxiness. As the wine opens, white flowers and zestier citrus fruits complete a complex, yet restrained expression Vouvray that’s oh-so gastronomic.

Vintage: 2023
Varieties: Chenin Blanc
Style: Sparkling Wine
ABV: 13%
Region: Touraine, Loire
Sub-Region or Appellation: AOC Vouvray
Viticulture:
Age of Vines: < 15 years
Soils: cold clay & flintstone on limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous yeasts
Vinification: Grapes are hand-picked in shallow boxes, pressed with pneumatic press, then fermented in steel tanks
Aging: in steel tank for — months
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: none added

Residual Sugar: <0 .5 g/L